Tuesday, July 28, 2015

TSTP, Act 1

*Note: This entry covers the events of July 12-July 17.*

On Sunday morning, I had to check out of the Great Dover Street Apartments to begin the next leg of my journey. I took my large suitcase to Bankside House to check it in the baggage hold, but I was not allowed to get my room until 3 p.m., thereby rendering me homeless for a few hours. I spent my time wandering by the river, grabbing a bite to eat, and generally being lazy. Paris had taken a lot of energy, and I was looking forward to just resting before my "work" began on Monday. I did, however, get to eat with Tori Short (my cousin/friend/former student) at The Anchor; we had a lovely time at one of London's oldest pubs.


Bankside offered a lot that my previous flat did not: consistent internet service, working elevators, free breakfast. The only downside to all of this was that construction on the new section of the Tate Modern Art Museum was taking place right outside my window. However, it was still better than the last place!

While I could spend a lot of time detailing every exercise we covered during the week, I'm opting to give you a brief overview of the amazing things going on here at Globe Education and our Teaching Education Through Performance program.

Monday:
  • Introductions all around! There are a total of 25 teachers from across the US in TSTP 2015.
  • Tour of The Globe and the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse with our program director, Fiona Banks.
  • First ensemble rehearsal with the wild and crazy Colin Hurley.
  • Welcome reception and dinner!
Fiona!

The Globe Stage as the set of Richard II was being built

Sam Wanamaker Playhouse (Yes, those are REAL candles!)

Tuesday:
  • We began work on our scenes from As You Like It. My scene director Pieter Lawman is a fantastic actor/director/person! I will be playing Orlando in our scene, which we will be presenting on the Globe Stage. We will also be the first teachers in TSTP history to perform on the Wanamaker stage!
  • We joined a group of teachers from New Zealand for an amazing historical costume lecture and then a briefing on the play Measure for Measure.
  • We discovered that The Globe has a research library with tons of resources!
  • I got to experience my first-ever Globe performance as a groundling! Measure for Measure was so very moving, and the rain lightly coming down only added to the drama of the show.
A New Zealand teacher (left) and Danielle from TSTP model Shakespearean costumes for men

So thrilled to be a groundling!!!

Wednesday:
  • We got to observe Globe Education practitioners working with school children.
  • We were treated to a presentation on Shakespearean music, which included some live performances by the instructor!
  • Colin hosted a Q & A session for us with two cast members from Measure for Measure.
Thursday:
  • We had our first movement session with the amazing Glynn MacDonald. She is one of the most fabulous individuals I have ever met. I cannot do her justice, so just watch this clip:

  • We also had our first voice and text classes.
  • We attended Richard II starring Charles Edwards, who also played Edith's boyfriend on Downton Abbey. We saw him after the show, but I was too star-struck to ask for a picture with him!
  • Since the show was a matinee performance and the sun was shining, we got the world's coolest paper hats to wear!
  • Some of us went for a little stroll following the show.
This was the set they were working on Monday!

Total fashion statement!

Big Ben at night!

National Theatre

Gorgeous London

Friday:
  • We started our day at 7 a.m. with scene rehearsals on stage at the Globe! Pieter took us through the Green Room, then we made our entrances from center stage.
  • We observed a storytelling session for 6-year-olds featuring The Tempest.
  • We reflected on the week.
One of many Green Room posters

So many great things happened this week, but the best part was being with so many like-minded professionals. Whether teaching English or theatre, each person here is passionate about Shakespeare and his works! No one even got mad when we were given Shakespeare homework over the weekend...but that's for the next entry!

Long days and pleasant nights!

**Good night, Mrs. Hall, wherever you are!**

Sunday, July 26, 2015

Vive la France!

*Note: This entry covers the events of July 11.*

This day proved to be very momentous for me. I woke very early and climbed on the "night bus" by 5:30 a.m. in order to give myself enough time to get to King's Cross before my train departed for Paris. I was a little iffy about the bus service given my horrible experience on Tube strike day. However, I was able to make it to King's Cross with no hassle, and I had enough time to grab a coffee to perk me up a little at such an early hour. I had once again booked my trip through Golden Tours, and they made this day almost effortless for me!

Before boarding the Eurostar train, which would take me under the English Channel and into Paris, I had to pass through boarder control. I was pretty happy about this because I got some more stamps on my passport! Everything went smoothly, and I was thrilled to find out that my Eurostar ticket was first class! I rode in style to Paris, which took a little over two hours. I had been given a packet of information about my trip, and, to my surprise, Golden Tours had included a hop-on, hop-off tour of Paris for me! The included map allowed me to start planning my stops before I even left the train, so I was really able to maximize my time.

Stop 1: Hard Rock Paris

I had to purchase a shirt here for my collection, which now includes Paris, London, and Madrid.


Stop 2: The Louvre

Probably the most famous art museum in the world, The Louvre was one of the places I knew I needed to visit. I really wish I had had more time to look around, but I was able to see some beautiful works. Of course the Mona Lisa was the biggie!




Stop 3: Notre Dame Cathedral

If you want to see something amazingly beautiful, all you have to do is visit Notre Dame. I have been in many cathedrals, but there is something glorious about this building. Built in the Gothic style, Notre Dame features flying buttresses and gargoyles, which add to the already elaborate carvings on the exterior. Inside, elegant friezes and stunning rose windows add to the majesty of this cathedral. Even though I had to wait for a while to go inside, it was totally worth it!


In Transit: The Seine, the Champs-Élysées, and the Arc de Triomphe

While I did not disembark at any of these locations due to time constraints, I did get some very good pictures. The Seine is the major river in Paris, which features prominently in Les Misérables by Victor Hugo. The Champs-Élysées is an avenue famous for its restaurants, shops, and theatres. It is quite fashionable to stroll down this street; sadly, I didn't have time for a stroll. At the end of the Champs-Élysées is the Arc de Triomphe, which Napoleon erected to celebrate all French victories up to 1836. The French Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is underneath the Arc de Triomphe.




Stop 4: The Eiffel Tower

OK, so I'm going to guess that you all knew this one was coming. I mean, who goes to Paris and doesn't see the Eiffel Tower? The Eiffel Tower, erected in 1889 for the World's Fair and standing an impressive 1,063 feet tall, has become the face of France and is one of the most recognizable buildings in the world. After taking tons of pictures here, I enjoyed what was called a hotdog (it was really a baguette with a frankfurter inside, plus a little ketchup) underneath the beautiful lattice work of the tower. The only downside to this stop was that street vendors kept approaching tourists, sometimes rather forcefully. I actually saw the cops take down one of the vendors before I left.


Lunchtime view!

Stop 5: Napoleon's Tomb

After visiting the tomb of the Duke of Wellington, I figured I'd be fair and visit the tomb of the man he defeated. Napoleon's tomb is located at L'Hôtel des Invalides under the central dome. While he died in 1821, Napoleon's remains were not entombed at L'Hôtel des Invalides until 1861. The sarcophagus is huge and the building is extremely regal, both of which I'm sure Napoleon would have loved. Additionally, the rest of the building complex houses the French Military Museum; since the admission price got me in both, I did a little exploring in the museum as well.


Stop 6: The Moulin Rouge!!!

I've been in love with the Moulin Rouge ever since I first saw the Baz Luhrmann movie of the same name. This cabaret in the red light district of Pigalle is famous for being the birthplace of the modern can-can. It was also a favorite haunt of artist Henri Toulouse-Lautrec. Standing before the iconic red windmill on the building's roof, I had to smile. Only a few months ago, I was frantically piecing together a replica of this very building for my school's prom; now, I was standing in front of the real-life version. Life's coincidences are pretty amazing!



I managed to catch the last bus back to the train station, then made my way through border control for the second time in one day. After settling into my comfy first-class Eurostar seat, I had time to think about my amazing day in Paris. While I was able to see all of the highlights, I already wanted to come back some day. Audrey Hepburn was right: Paris is always a good idea!

Long days and pleasant nights!

**Good night, Mrs. Hall, wherever you are!**

Make Haste!

*Note: This entry covers the events of July 10.*

Since the Tube was once again operational, I needed to make the most of this day before my day trip to Paris and the beginning of my program. I covered a lot of ground, but I wish I could have had much more time in each location. Here is a breakdown of my whirlwind day!

Stop 1: The British Library

As an English teacher and lover of literature, it would have been a shame if I had passed up this amazing library. Upon my arrival, I was greeted by none other than the Bard himself. This statue of Shakespeare is a copy of the one in Poet's Corner at Westminster Abbey. This is the only picture I was able to snap at the British Library as the other exhibits prohibited photography.


The works on display at the British Museum are mind-boggling! I was able to see hand-written sheet music by Bach, Handel, Chopin, Mozart, Beethoven, Puccini, Elgar, Debussy, Bartok, Stravinsky, and The Beatles. The manuscripts on display included works (many hand-written) by Raleigh, Austen, Shelley, Dickens, Bronte, Elizabeth Browning, Hardy, Wilde, Auden, Pinter, Carter, and Lord Byron. Of particular interest to me was their wide range of Shakespeare's works, with editions ranging from 1595-1709; this display included a copy of the First Folio! However, two items were especially moving for me to see: an original copy of Beowulf and the Gutenberg Bible. Seeing these two works which have had such an impact on the history of storytelling and book publishing was an experience beyond words for me.

After viewing sketches by Durer, da Vinci, and Michelangelo, I made my way through a special Magna Carta exhibit. As part of the 800th anniversary of the signing of this historic document, this exhibit showcased the history of law in England. Additionally, items from the life of King John were featured. I found it interesting that so many American documents were featured in the exhibit, including copies of the Declaration of Independence and The Bill of Rights (on loan from Washington, D.C.). The library owns two copies of the Magna Carta, one of which is impossible to read. Seeing this historic document was a great way to conclude my visit.

Stop 2: The British Museum

I walked from the British Library to the British Museum, and I was shocked when I first saw it. I knew it was going to be big, but I was floored by the size! Once I stepped inside, I knew that I could spend a week in here and still never see everything!


I managed to hit all of the major spots in the museum, and then spent a lot of time in the Egyptian displays. Here are a few pictures of these amazing exhibits, the first of which is the Rosetta Stone which helped crack the code of Egyptian hieroglyphics. Needless to say, the Rosetta Stone was by far the most popular exhibit in the museum.

Best picture of the Rosetta Stone I could get due to the hundreds swarming around it!

Sculpture from The Parthenon

Easter Island Figure

Buddhist Goddess Tara

The David Vases

The Sutton Hoo Mask

Standard of Ur

Gold Leaf Inner Coffin of Henutmehyt


Assyrian winged bull with human head from the palace of Ashurnasirpal II
 
 
Stop 3: The Sherlock Holmes Pub
 
If you remember from my last post, I wanted to eat here on the day of the Tube strike, but that totally fell through. However, I made it here today! The pub is nestled in a little corner just off of Trafalgar Square. The location is great, as are the atmosphere and food. The lemon herb chicken I had was fabulous, and I enjoyed checking out all of the Sherlock Holmes paraphernalia as well.
 



Stop 4: Jack the Ripper Tour

What trip to London would be complete without a walking tour focusing on London's most notorious killer? The guide told us that there tons of different Jack the Ripper tours due to people's interest in this madman. The tour took us through the Whitechapel area of London where Jack the Ripper committed his murders, and I accidently ended up standing on the exact location where one of the bodies was found!!! It was a very graphic tour, but the guide didn't leave out any details about the murders. I did wonder about some people's judgment, though, as a couple had brought their very young daughter along on the tour. Anyway, the best part of the tour (for me, anyway) was getting to see The Ten Bells, the pub where all of the victims were seen prior to their murders. It is really the only common factor in all the murders, which makes it highly popular today.


Stop 5: The Flat

After a very busy day, I was all too happy to finally return to my flat. Once again, spotty internet service was an issue, but I needed to get my rest anyway. I had to get up bright and early the next morning for a day trip to Paris! More on that in the next post!

Long days and pleasant nights!

**Goodnight, Mrs. Hall, wherever you are!**



Wednesday, July 15, 2015

City Frustrations

*Note: This entry covers the events of July 9.*

I love schedules and itineraries, so I had naturally sketched out a rough plan of what I was going to do with my time in London. On today's agenda I had penciled in the British Museum, the Sherlock Holmes pub for lunch, Evensong at St. Paul's, then meeting my friend Megan at the Swan Bar & Restaurant for good food and conversation. Well, it's a good thing that I used pencil, because NOTHING turned out like I had planned it (except for my evening with Megan).

Yesterday, I had heard that there was going to be a Tube strike today; however, the buses would be running and the Oyster cards which allow you to travel on the Tube also work on other forms of public transportation. I just assumed that the day would go according to plan, even though I'd have to do a little research on bus routes. In the words of Waylon Jennings, "WRONG!!!"

While I was able to locate the correct buses, I had no idea that these buses would abruptly terminate their service in the middle of their route or, in some cases, change their routes altogether. The first bus terminated its service and left me at an out-of-service bus stop; I had to walk around to find another stop that was active, then plan a whole new route to get me to the British Museum. Alas, the next bus I hopped on changed its destination after three stops. There were people all around me, causing the temperature to climb, so finally I got off at Royal Albert Hall for no other reason than to get away from the madness. I got some good pictures of the large music venue and the beautiful memorial statue of Prince Albert which Queen Victoria had constructed soon after his death. I find the love story between Victoria and Albert to be fascinating, and this statue really shows just how much Victoria loved him.

 

Given the impossible bus situation, I figured that the British Museum wasn't happening today; luckily, the Albert Memorial was located in Kensington Gardens. I decided to go with the flow and spend some time exploring. Kensington Gardens turned out to be a beautiful area. I purchased a lovely ice cream with a flake and discovered the Italian Garden which Albert had constructed for Victoria, a memorial to Edward Jenner, a Peter Pan statue, and the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain.









I found the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain to be especially nice. It was a warm day, and numerous children were playing in the fountain. I couldn't think of a better tribute to a woman who had worked as a teacher before becoming a princess. After wandering through the gardens, I enjoyed a light lunch from Lido before I worked up the nerve to try the bus system again. Surely I could still make it to St. Paul's by 5:00 pm for Evensong. Cue Waylon again...

The bus situation was completely out of hand!!! The bus I was on terminated at a location that was nowhere near where I needed to go. The bus stop I was let out at was crammed with people, all needing to take the next bus to Trafalgar Square. While this was not where I needed to go, it was the only bus going anywhere close to my destination. When the bus finally arrived, I was carried on the wave of people into the bus. We were so crammed in that I couldn't move my arms. At first, the doors of the bus would not even close. Some people had to vacate the bus before we could leave, and, once we finally started rolling, traffic slowed to a crawl. As the time slipped slowly by, the temperature on the bus skyrocketed. The combination of zero personal space, extreme heat, and poor hygiene of others really started to take its toll on me. As we inched towards Trafalgar Square, I knew I had had enough. As soon as the bus stopped, I jumped off; the conditions were simply too miserable for me, so I decided to walk. It was now impossible to make it to Evensong, but I still could catch Megan at the Swan Bar & Restaurant.

The walk was the longest I had taken in London, but it was still manageable. I made it to the Swan and waited for Megan. As it turned out, she also hopped off the bus at Trafalgar Square and walked!!! We spent the evening catching each other up on our lives, discussing our frustrations about public transportation, and discussing Shakespeare related plans for the future. We ended the day with a nice walk back to our apartment building. I have decided that while it is always nice to spend time with friends, it is particularly soothing to see a familiar face when visiting an unfamiliar city, especially when said city's public transportation has completely ruined your nicely planned itinerary. Even though the day did not go as planned, I was able to discover some things I would have otherwise overlooked; everything worked out just as it was meant to in the end.

Long days and pleasant nights!

**Good night, Mrs. Hall, wherever you are!**

London by Air

*Note: This entry covers the events of July 8.*

Today was the first time I decided to really explore the city on foot. After the first two days of hop on, hop off adventures, I had a general idea of how the city worked. My first stop of the day was St. Paul's Cathedral. The morning air made my walk a little chilly, but it was enjoyable nonetheless. I arrived around the time St. Paul's opened for tours, so I got in quickly. The building was gorgeous, both inside and out, and the audio tour included with the admission price was very informative. However, I got the biggest thrill climbing to the Whisper Gallery and beyond.


The Whisper Gallery is situated inside the dome of the cathedral. You must climb 257 steps to reach this area, but it provides an up-close view of the paintings on the dome. It is called the Whisper Gallery because if someone standing directly across the circular opening from you were to whisper, you could hear them. However, the Whisper Gallery is really just the beginning. There are two more galleries situated above this level on the *outside* of the cathedral. Signs were up everywhere stating that you should not begin the climb up if you felt you may chicken out for any reason. Well, I'm not a chicken, so I began my ascent to the top of St. Paul's.

The second level I reached, after another 119 steps, was the Stone Gallery. There was plenty of room to move around once you emerged from the stairway, and the view was great. However, I did not stop there. I continued on to the highest point, the Golden Gallery, climbing another 152 steps along the way.


If you look at this picture of the dome, you can see the Stone Gallery at the base of the dome; the Golden Gallery is located at the top of the dome. There was very little room to maneuver, but the view of London was breathtaking. As the wind viciously whipped my hair around my face, I captured some amazing photos, and even had my own picture taken to mark the occasion; it's not every day that I stand 280 feet above ground level! I am so glad that I tackled this challenge. Not only was the scenery rewarding, but the experience also gave me the chance to see the genius of Christopher Wren up close and personal. While making the climb to the Golden Gallery, you can actually see the interior dome which was constructed to support the outer dome.


One of my shots of the city. Can you see the London Eye?

After visiting the crypt to view the tombs of Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, and Christopher Wren, I grabbed a quick sandwich for lunch and headed for my next destination.

If you know me, then you know I love period British drama. Downton Abbey has been a long-time favorite of mine, but I have recently become obsessed with Mr. Selfridge. For this reason, I visited Selfridge's on Oxford Street!!! While the store has been modernized, the exterior is still exquisite and the original clock still hangs above the door. While I looked at everything, my final purchase was made in the toy department, where I bought a stuffed Paddington Bear. I've loved Paddington since I was very young, and it just seemed appropriate to buy one while in London.



Next, I traveled to a very touristy London attraction: the London Eye! While not necessarily a must see, I just couldn't pass up the opportunity. I had to stand in line for about 30 minutes before I was herded onto a pod with about 20 other people. The Eye is Europe's largest Ferris wheel; at the top, we were 443 feel in the air. The view was great, but the sun's glare on the capsule glass made getting good pictures tricky. However, I did get a picture with a very tiny St. Paul's, thereby completing my day's full-circle, aerial adventure!



On my stroll home, I passed the National Theatre and discovered a statue of Laurence Olivier as Hamlet. It was a nice way to close another beautiful day in London!


Long days and pleasant nights!

**Good night, Mrs. Hall, wherever you are!**